Lousios Gorge

 Oct 1

Today was a day we’d planned for months: a hike in the Lousios Gorge. After a simple breakfast at the guesthouse, we drove our way down into the canyon. I should say, Carol drove, because driving the windy roads with a stick-shift car has irritated my injured shoulder. Anyhow, the road was narrow, rough, and in places collapsing, a series of hairpins down an almost-cliff. We were grateful not to meet anyone coming up as we wound our way down.

Breakfast room

The hike was fantastic, along a wooded rushing river, then up to the cliff-hanging Monastery of Saint John the Forerunner that was our destination. Once there, we donned skirts provided for us (no pants for women, no shorts for men) and wandered through. In an upper room, the monks had laid out espresso and home-made cookies for visitors. 

The red tags mark the trail

Looking back the way we'd come

"Fulling Tub" beside the river

Clothes set out for visitors to meet dress code

Our chosen skirts

The monastery was established in the 12th Century as a hermitage and later became a centre for spiritual learning and reflection. We were free to explore the curving interiors, walls covered in frescoes and icons and pictures of former monks. There were maybe a dozen visitors there when we were, but the atmosphere was hushed; people were moved to silence. Photos were prohibited inside the monastery.  . 

Outside, it was a working farm, with mules and chickens and gardens planted with beans and eggplants. We saw monks heading down the hill with ropes and a pick axe. We saw laundry hanging, and wheelbarrows waiting to be used.

  

Coffee and cookies in a room on that top floor

Monks' laundry line

I can't imagine how this place was built, centuries ago

Lunch stop on the way down

We retraced our steps and the drive back to Stemnitsa for a drink in the one café, then repeated last night, eating at the only open restaurant in town. With few items on the menu, we’re looking forward to more variety in our next stop. 

Stemnitsa

 

The only restaurant open at this time of year