Dubrovnik to Split, through Korçula

 May 29, 2025

 

Today was a travel day. We had booked the ferry from Dubrovnik to Split, which will be our starting place for the bike-and-boat tour. We took the opportunity for a stop-over in Korçula, on Korçula Island. We were to be in Korçula for 7 hours, too long, really, for a tiny place, but didn't want to miss it.

On the ferry, bright and early

After a two-hour ferry ride, we stashed our luggage at the local laundry, a few minutes walk from the dock, and hit the town.

The story goes that the Venetians, in (I think) the 11th Century, unable to conquer Dubrovnik (those canons!), built a “Little Dubrovnik” on Korçula. The winged lion of St. Mark marks the main gate into town.

Main gate to Korçula

The winged lion of St. Mark

This was indeed a mini-Dubrovnik, resplendent with tourist shops, restaurants, and gelato spots. One wants to do the Google Blur in a place like this — you know, how Google Maps blurs faces and licence plate numbers — and picture how it’s meant to be, how it was when it was a living place with homes and bread-bakers and markets for people going about their day-to-day. It’s not that hard to imagine. As we wandered through, I felt there was something different here, something missing in Dubrovnik. I realized it was probably that Dubrovnik is a largely reconstructed city after the bombardment of 1991-92, while this wee town is intact. What looks old is actually old. It makes a difference.

And it seems I didn't take photos, so I have no way of demonstrating what I mean. Sheesh!

I stopped in a jewelry shop that had the usual display of coral necklaces and bracelets in the window. Adriatic coral is tightly controlled so as not to wipe out the species, and shops selling coral jewelry are ubiquitous. I feel okay buying a bit of coral here. This Korçula shop was a tiny, rough-hewn place, manned by its owner. I had bought a coral bracelet in Dubrovnik, a simple string of coral beads for which I paid a pretty penny, but you know, the more I looked at it, the more it looked like plastic. I asked the Korçula jeweller about the different colours of coral, some dark red, some pale. He looked at mine and said, yes, it’s coral, but it’s Pacific Ocean coral. And it’s white coral that’s been dyed. Argh! He showed me that the clasp was stainless steel and the coral beads are threaded on cotton. How did I miss that?? I blame it on jetlag, plus the notion that I would never, ever, have an opportunity to find a coral bracelet so I’d better get it right now and not ask questions. Sheesh. My skeptical self is cringing.

Anyhow, I bought a better bracelet from this man, of Adriatic coral, with a silver clasp and a metal cord, and at half the price I’d paid in Dubrovnik. I will wear the two together as a lesson in humility.

This one's the real deal, Adriatic coral

We’d only had a snack breakfast of yoghurt and fruit on the ferry, so after a bit of a wander through Korçula, we stopped at Coco & Pepper for breakfast — quiche and Eggs Benny. Not the heel of bread that might have been on offer a millenium ago. We’re finding that the massive breakfasts we get here tide us over to dinner. Gelato doesn’t count as lunch, does it?

View from inside the walled town

We walked up the hill above the town for a bit, then walked north of town for a view back at it. Really not much to do here. We gawked at some billionaire’s mega-yacht, and were not invited on board. We saw a Sail Croatia ship (with whom we’ll be sailing), one a lot bigger than the one we’ll be on. We walked along a stone shore that had ladders for climbing out of the water if we’d fancied a swim. We explored the alleys of town that we had not yet explored.

Looking back towards town. Note super yachts

Swimming area, if you like

We climbed the bell tower of the church in the center of town. Well, Carol and Bettyanne climbed it. I made it 80% of the way and chickened out. Vertigo got the best of me, and when I looked up and saw that the “floor” of the bell level was a steel grate, I figured if I made it up, I’d never make it back down. Instead, I took pictures from below of them taking pictures of the view from up there. I learned later that Carol was shaking the whole time. Bettyanne, I think, is fearless.

Up the bell tower. Escher? Note Carol and Bettyanne crouching up there, taking pictures

Two-handed descent

We had lunch, er, gelato. Lavender! Mmmm! Purple!

As ferry time drew near, we picked up our bags, safely stashed behind the laundry door, paid the €5 storage fee, and sat in a shady park to wait.

The ferry from there to Split was a long three-hour ride. These ferries are very fast catamarans; no cars, no amenities, just plain efficiency. We were stuffed into our seats much like we would be stuffed into airline seats. The entertainment was the changing colour of the neon lights in the ceiling. We made two stops at small towns on small islands along the way. Even in the most tiny, remote place, the atmosphere was Party. Croatia! 

Our ferry in port at Korçula

Two shots the same, except for different coloured lights

One of many, many islands. Typical topography

 

The hopping town of Hvar, on a tiny island along the way

We pulled into Split at 8 pm, right on time. We made our way to our respective places, each about a 10 minute walk. I was greeted by Natasa, who was lovely like all young Croats, I think, who showed me through my expansive apartment. Carol climbed 5 storeys to a deluxe room upgrade with French doors opening onto the harbour. Bettyanne wound her way just outside the old town to her newly renovated suite. All happy with our places, all tired.